Cilaos via the 400 bends: road and transport guide

The RN5 between Saint-Louis and Cilaos is 35 km, 1h-1h15 of driving, and roughly 400 tight switchbacks. It''s no tourist legend: the road truly climbs from sea level to 1,200 m altitude into the cirque of Cilaos, with several single-lane tunnels where you sound the horn before entering. This guide gives the detailed itinerary, road tips and the VTC alternative for those who want to enjoy the scenery without holding the wheel.

Table of contents

1. RN5 itinerary Saint-Louis → Cilaos
2. The single-lane tunnels
3. Weather, fog, safety
4. Transport: bus, VTC, rental
5. What to do in Cilaos
6. FAQ

RN5 itinerary Saint-Louis → Cilaos

Start at Saint-Louis (RN1/RN5 roundabout), arrive Cilaos town centre (church car park). The RN5 unfolds as:

1. 0-8 km: leaving Saint-Louis, gentle climb
2. 8-15 km: entering the cirque, first tight bends, views of the Saint-Étienne river
3. 15-25 km: zone of single-lane tunnels, hairpin turns
4. 25-32 km: final climb to Îlet à Cordes (variant) or Cilaos centre
5. 32-35 km: arrival Cilaos centre

Elevation gain: 1,200 m. Real average speed: 30-35 km/h.

👉 Book your Zoot driver in the app→

The single-lane tunnels

Several tunnels on the RN5 do not allow two cars side by side. Drivers honk before entering and pass in alternation. No traffic lights: a local custom built on courtesy. Don''t stop in the tunnel, don''t overtake on exit. Locals manage smoothly; new drivers sometimes need 2-3 tries.

Weather, fog, safety

Fog frequent from midday in the upper section. Heavy rain in wet season (December-April), avoid driving after a major storm: landslides possible. Early morning offers best visibility, golden light on the cirque walls.

Local tip: if you see a Car Jaune (local bus) in your mirror, pull over at the next layby. Local drivers know the road and run at a pace visitors can''t match.

Transport: bus, VTC, rental

The Car Jaune line ZE (Saint-Pierre/Saint-Louis ↔ Cilaos) runs several times a day, but comfort is basic and photo stops aren''t possible. For a full discovery day, hourly VTC lets you make 4-5 photo stops (Mare à Joseph, Bras Sec viewpoint, Îlet à Cordes), a Creole lunch in Cilaos centre, then the descent.

What to do in Cilaos

• Cilaos thermal baths: 35 °C hot springs, treatments, hammam
• Maison de la Broderie: traditional embroidery, "jours de Cilaos"
• Cilaos wine cellar: local wine tasting
• Îlet à Cordes: hamlet at 1,100 m with crater view, ~30 min drive from Cilaos
• Bras-Rouge trail: 2 h round-trip hike to the waterfall
• Roche Merveilleuse: 1,503 m belvedere, 360° cirque view

For hikers: Cilaos is the starting point for Piton des Neiges (3,071 m), the Indian Ocean''s highest peak (2-day hike with night bivouac at the Gîte du Piton).

👉 Book your Zoot driver in the app→

FAQ

Why "400 bends"?

Historical count of bends on the 35 km RN5. The exact number varies (between 380 and 420) but the name is now official and appears on road signs.

Can I do Cilaos as a half-day trip?

Very tight. 1 h up + 1 h down = 2 h driving + max 2 h on site. A full day is better to enjoy the cirque, baths and at least one viewpoint.

Is motion sickness common?

Yes. Tight bends and elevation often trigger it, especially for rear passengers. Take a preventive dose 30 min before, sit in front if possible.

How high is Cilaos?

1,200 m. Cool nights (sometimes 5 °C in austral winter, June-August). Bring a fleece even in summer.

Cilaos or Salazie, which one?

Cilaos is drier, more mineral, with the Piton des Neiges hike. Salazie is greener, with waterfalls and Hell-Bourg heritage. If you can only do one, Cilaos for the views, Salazie for the Creole atmosphere. More in Salazie, Hell-Bourg, Belouve: a day with a driver.

Read also

• 10 must-do tours in Réunion Island
• Mafate: how to reach the isolated cirque
• Salazie, Hell-Bourg, Belouve: a day with a driver
• When to take a VTC on Réunion