Wild coast vs lagoon coast: VTC itinerary

On Réunion, the two coasts live back to back. To the west, the lagoons sheltered by the coral barrier: turquoise water, golden sand, snorkelling and lounging. To the east, the wild black-lava coast: cliffs pounded by trade winds, waterfalls falling straight into the ocean, almost no swimming. Both deserve a dedicated VTC itinerary, or a combo. The local guide below.

Table of contents

1. West coast: the lagoons
2. East coast: wild and black
3. Side-by-side comparison
4. West-coast VTC half day
5. East-coast VTC half day
6. FAQ

West coast: the lagoons

From Saint-Paul to Saint-Pierre, the west coast is fringed by a coral barrier sheltering a turquoise lagoon over ~25 km. Four headline spots:

• L''Hermitage-les-Bains: widest lagoon, casuarina-shaded beach, beginner-friendly snorkelling
• La Saline-les-Bains: family beach, golden sand, bohemian feel
• Saint-Leu: urban beach + world-class surf spot (Saint-Leu left)
• Étang-Salé-les-Bains: volcanic black sand, atypical

The Maïdo (2,200 m) towers over this coast and offers the iconic view onto Mafate. See 10 must-do tours.

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East coast: wild and black

From Sainte-Suzanne to Saint-Philippe, the east faces the trade winds. No coral barrier, little swimming, but a remarkable concentration of volcanic scenery:

• Sainte-Suzanne Niagara waterfall: ~25 m, free botanical garden
• Bras Panon: vanilla capital, plantation and cooperative
• Sainte-Anne church: striking Creole neo-Gothic architecture
• Anse des Cascades: palm grove + waterfalls into the ocean
• Notre-Dame des Laves (Piton Sainte-Rose): church spared by the 1977 lava
• 2007 flow: national road overlaid with black basalt between Saint-Philippe and Sainte-Rose
• Cap Méchant: basaltic cliffs, sea breeze
• Pointe de la Table: youngest land in France (formed by 1986 flow)

Side-by-side comparison

The compromise: 1 day west lagoons, 1 day east wild. Or round-the-island in one day for a sampler. See Round-the-island in one day.

West-coast VTC half day

Start 9 am, return 2-3 pm.

1. Saint-Gilles port + fortified church (15 min)
2. L''Hermitage beach: 1 h snorkelling, ice-cream café
3. La Saline-les-Bains: beach photo
4. Saint-Leu: Stella Matutina museum or surf belvedere
5. Lunch: grilled fish or fish curry, sea-view terrace
6. Back west

Hourly VTC ~5 h, ideal for 2-4 people.

East-coast VTC half day

Start 8 am, return 2-3 pm.

1. Saint-Benoît / Bras Panon: vanilla cooperative, tasting
2. Sainte-Rose: Notre-Dame des Laves
3. 2007 flow (signposted stop)
4. Anse des Cascades: palm grove, photo
5. Cap Méchant: black cliffs
6. Lunch Saint-Philippe: bichique curry (seasonal)
7. Return west via RN1 (1h30)

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FAQ

Which coast for a week-long holiday?

For beach and lounging: stay on the west coast (Saint-Gilles, l''Hermitage, Saint-Leu). For nature discovery: combine both coasts by VTC.

Can I swim on the east coast?

A few sheltered basins: Bassin Bleu (Sainte-Suzanne), Anse des Cascades. The open sea is not swimmable (swells, sharks, currents).

When to see humpback whales?

July to October, west coast. Spots: Saint-Leu, Saint-Gilles, Étang-Salé. Boat trips available, or shore-watch from Cap La Houssaye cliffs.

Lagoons: best time for snorkelling?

Morning (8-10 am): calm water, best light. At low tide, watch for shallow coral. At high tide, depth ~1.5 m, lower visibility.

East coast during cyclone season?

December to March: cyclone risk. Frequent rain but waterfalls at full power. Check Météo France alerts before any trip.

Read also

• 10 must-do tours in Réunion Island
• Round-the-island in one day: itinerary & VTC price
• Salazie, Hell-Bourg, Belouve: a day with a driver
• VTC Réunion 974 every town